My Darjeeling Diaries...

You know what, what you think is not what you always get. I am not talking about My destination right now but about that 2 hour flight from Delhi to Bagdogra. Glued to the window during the flight with the hope to catch a glimpse of The Majestic Mt. Everest only to know that the pilot had taken a different route. Villain that he must be :(

Anyways!! It was time to land and the excitement was at all time high as I was going to begin my journey through North Eastern Himalayan range. Bagdogra is a fairly small airport and doesn't let you waste much time. The luggage arrived in no time and without much ado, I hopped onto a taxi and headed to Darjeeling.

Himalyan Railway

The journey was a complete nostalgia remembering all the Bollywood movies that have been pictured here. Darjeeling and Bollywood have a history dating back to 1949 with the most recent in 2014. Of course, the most popular "Mere sapno ki raani kab aayegi" song from movie Aradhana which must have induced ranjha in god knows how many men. I continued to enjoy my joy ride going through the winds, the tea plantations and remembering all those romantic movies and songs. And while I was lost in thoughts, the taxi came to a halt and whoaaaaa... This actually "completed" my ride. It was the toy train my taxi was waiting for. I was gleeing with joy. I could sense that this trip was going to surprise me every now and then.

Darjeeling Tea Gardens

Darjeeling is meant to be experienced. There is a lot even in the hustle bustle of this hill town. Strolling through the markets, tasting tea at local tea shops, and interacting with travelers from around the world are a few things that one could do in addition to the usual tourist spots. Evening are even more fun when all the cafes around are buzzing with peppy music and people. Just like most of Himalayan destinations in India, Darjeeling too attracts huge number of tourists, but what makes it different from other destinations is the culture, warmth, and welcoming people and especially the tea. Not just the usual ones... There are some cafes which serve freshly brewed teas as well. 

Train Ride and some gorgeous views

When in Darjeeling, there is something more special one ought to do there. i.e a joy ride in toy train (yes the one that made me glee). The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway runs between Darjeeling and Kurseong with its head quarters in Kurseong. This narrow gauge railway (built in 1881 when Britishers ruled India and is handled by British-built steam engine) is also listed as the Mountain Railways of India World Heritage Site by UNESCO. The train route overlooks the beautiful tea gardens, and I was amazed by the breathtaking views of The Himalayas. Despite being one of the oldest railways, these are still retained in remarkable condition.

Tea Processing in Factory

Something that was still missing to all this and what I love doing, engaging with the locals to feel the culture. So, I intentionally planned a stay with a local family where an extremely hospitable lady, also a worker at a tea estate, welcomed me with a smiling face and happiness. The lady very cordially introduced me to everyone in family. It was actually an overwhelming experience. We all sat for a cup of tea from freshly plucked leaves and talked for hours despite the language differences. The warm welcome, simplicity, some basic gestures muddled with the aroma of the tea is something I long for in the city. All of this made me feel extremely comfortable and at home. The feeling cannot really be put in words. Their urge to do whatever it takes to give the best possible experience to their visitors is something I can't stop admiring ever. The lady also took me for a hike in the tea plantation area to show the process of tea making, from planting to plucking and then processing in the factory. After a tiring day hiking in the tea gardens, she again served me hot cups of tea followed by delicious fresh and healthy home cooked dinner. The family sat with me for dinner and talked about culture, cuisine, people and how they survive in those harsh circumstances. 

Living with locals is a great way of bonding with and knowing the place, culture and being pampered with some true local cuisine, and also helps them to make some pennies. My advise to stay with locals would be to every traveler with similar liking. The crowd is for the people who come to visit the place, those who want to experience find method to the madness. 

Goodbye Selfie with my host at homestay

While bidding Goodbye the next morning, the host lady asked me, what would I miss the most about this trip?. I smiled and answered... The Tea and The Talks :)

Have you been to Darjeeling??If yes, 

Share your experience.

If planning to go any sooner, 

Post your queries in comments below.

Splendid Sandakphu

Sometimes Journeys are more memorable than the destination and this was one such drive for me. Right after booking my tickets, I had very less time in my hand for planning my North East trip. I asked people on forums what all I must add in my itinerary. When I asked about Sandakphu, people said Sandakphu is a gorgeous 6-7 days trek and is a must do (which indeed it is) but plan a separate trip. When I heard the word gorgeous, it clicked me. When it comes to travel, I am very greedy person. I crave to see anything and everything as soon as possible. So I just kept on exploring options over internet and then something caught my eyes.

Sandakphu-Phalut Route

I read about Manebhanjyang Vintage Land rover Association of Singalila National Park (in Darjeeling), having the UK’s biggest collection of classic 4x4 Land Rovers, with the vintage Land rovers being driven on Manebhanjyang to Sandakphu route. There it was, Sandakphu ticked in this trip itself. (Eyes sparkling)

Vintage Landrover

To embrace this new experience, I traveled from Darjeeling to Manebhanjyang on an early morning, booked a Land rover and jumped in the old iron for an exciting 31km rash drive in Singalila National Park. The coolest thing about Manebhanjyang Land rovers is that they are kept original. They don’t have any valid papers. These fossil machines are blast to drive on those bumpy graveled roads. 

Graveled Roads

No power windows, no power brakes, no air conditioning. In short, no modern amenities we are used to in our modern vehicles now. Old Land rovers are meant to be truly driven. They are not fast, they are not super comfortable but they certainly are damn cool. These are lovely decades old machines that will last for many generations to come.

Landscapes in Singalila

Singalila was a Sikkim Forest. In 1882 British Government brought these forests on lease from the Sikkimese Raja. And later on after Independence, this forest became the part of Darjeeling District (West Bengal). In 1992, Wildlife Forest Department declared it as the National Park and named it as “Singalila National Park”. For trekking in Singalila National Park, It is a must for trekkers to be accompanied by registered guides of Wildlife Department. This national park is very close to India-Nepal border.  While on this route, the roads take you across the border multiple times where in military is deputed at every check-post to ensure safety of tourists and the peace at borders.

Military Check-post

This national park is home of some rarest exotic animal life. Many of them are high altitude animals (mostly found in Himalayas) and are endangered ones such as Red Panda (one of favorites). The chance of sighting one is quite rare as there are very few of them. I was not lucky enough to see even one of them. The park houses rich flora and fauna. During the drive, rhododendron was at full bloom and mountains were studded with red flower buckets.

Blooming Rhododendrons

Besides all, Sandakphu-Phalut route offers breathtaking panoramic view of the gigantic Eastern Himalayas from Nepal to Sikkim, Arunachal Pradesh, up-till Bhutan, especially the Everest and Kanchenjunga. Sandakphu (11,909 ft) and Phalut (11,811 ft) are the two highest peaks of Singalila range. 

View of Himalayas from Sandakphu

The four famous mountains which are above 8000 mts. beside (K-2) are viewed from Sandakphu Phalut area. Sunrise and Sunset of Sandakphu are world famous. Mt. Kanchenjunga appears to be standing tall face to face as you move towards Sandakphu. The landscapes of this region after Sandakphu vary completely with one km. The aura changes from muddy mountains to snow clad forest. It is such a treat being up there amid the mountains. The people, culture, their way of living, economic condition and their mountain life, make this route extraordinary.

Somewhere on Sandakphu-Phalut Route

Seasons to Travel:

There are two great seasons to visit the park.

Spring (i.e. from March until May) when the flowers like rhododendrons and orchids bloom in full, and then again after the monsoon is over (i.e. between October and early December) when the snow peaks show in their dazzling beauty in a clear blue sky.

Things to carry:

·         The entire stretch is notorious for unpredictable rains so do carry rain jackets.

·         There is no electricity in the guest house at night. So carrying a torch is a must.

Note: 

• The park usually remains closed during the monsoon (between Mid-June to Mid-September). 
• The entire trail is bumpy and graveled. Plan to leave as early as possible from Manebhanjyang (no later than 1 PM).
• There is limited number of guest houses at Sandakphu. Prefer to book room in advance during peak season. 
• Shared taxis are available for Manebhanjyang from Darjeeling bus stand.
• Land Rover can accommodate 8 people. You can go to the stand and share with other travelers.

Have you been to Sandakphu? 

If yes, then share your experience.

Prashar Lake - Prashar Rishi's Holy Lake in Western Himalaya

With the year end approaching, my adrenaline rush to get a pump was turning into aches. I was in pursuit of whereabouts of a place which could justify every bit of my temptation and give me an exquisite impulse before I step into New Year. Just in time I came across this petty paradise far from the roar of city. The more I read about it, the more was the altitude of my urge to be at this untouched and unadulterated piece of Fairyland in secluded part of Himalayas. While the world was celebrating Christmas loud and boom, we started from Delhi on a dense foggy night, with a thought that Santa has lined up this for my Christmas and the Celebrations can't get any better than this.

Drove through the cities:

Delhi -> Ambala -> Chandigarh -> Kharar -> Rupnagar -> Bilaspur -> Mandi -> Baggi Village

Pristine Lake

When we talk about the roads, the highways are smooth but the path leading to Baggi Village from Mandi is bizarre. Commute from Delhi to Mandi takes 12-13 Hours approximately and is totally dependent on Weather.We elapsed more tik-toks on the clock due to low visibility and dense fog. We took shelter at Mandi and headed for the Village Baggi on the next sunrise.

Fascinated!!

This pristine lake resides as a secret in heart of Mandi, situated on top of a terrain alongside a Pagoda-like Temple (built in 13th century) devoted to sage Prashar. The lake is geographically placed in the vicinity of Dhauladhar range of Himalayas. This lake is sanctified to the belief of this being the place of meditation of Sage Prashar. The lake possesses a small floating island which shifts co-ordinates within. The depth of this water body is still undetermined.

The Holy Prashar Lake

Starting from Baggi village, trails are well defined during first kilometer but got diminished as we headed on. The snow patches started to appear once we elapsed the first mile. As we moved ahead, it turned from patchy to fuller and soon it was snow covered all around. The sun was shining bright with its rays colliding the snow which in turn was evolving a beautiful spectrum as if a treasure chest have spilled everywhere.

Some beautiful captures from trek:

Frozen Ceilings

Guest House maintained by Forest Dept.

Trails walked at night (morning view)

Descend from top

As we climbed up, the view kept on getting exceptional to awe-inspiring. Night was even more astounding when stars emerged from the horizon and the whole aura of geography changed. The luminous star studded sky embellished the snow as if I am in a wonderland surrounded by Diamonds. All the memories of this itinerary may fade or I may have to look at the pictures to reincarnate the scenic but I lost my heart somewhere in that Magical Starry night well-crafted on the canvas-board of outer space above. The persistence of this fascinating scenic in my heart is going to be indefinite. The snow scintillated like crystals with scattered rays of my torch-light. I would address myself opportune and fortunate enough for having witnessed this spellbinding mirage.

180 degree view of Dhauladhar range

The highest peak in the terrain surrounding the lake rewards a 180 degree view of Dhauladhar ranges. While you Stand on the top, the view encountered on Front and rear is wholly different. One side is a painted serenity with a pearl white sheet of snow with sparse foot trails engraved by the fellow trekkers and other side bestowed the view of unending brown gigantic Dhauladhars piercing the Horizon and sandwiched a pale-golden flame between the sky and mountains. Such journeys may come with acute difficulties but the synergy of the hardships and scenic views combined, always lit up life with energy and optimism.

That is why it is said

'When everything in life feels like an uphill struggle, just think of the view from The Top'
and
When you witness the view, you forget all the hardship you have gone through.

My Last picture on this trek

Have you been to Prashar Lake? 

If yes, share your experience
If planning to visit soon, find the details

Details for the ones who are planning to visit the pristine lake:

Difficulty Level: Easy to Moderate

Length of Trek: 8 km per side

Preferred Time of travel - 

Winter Trek : Dec end to Feb beginning

Summer Trek : June to August

Preferred Accommodation:

Camping at the Lake side is recommended but there is one guest house 1 km before the Lake

Gears Required:

Water resistant trekking shoes for winter trek

Thermals 

Comfortable track pants

Cap/Balaclava  

Fleece Jacket would be of great use

Face mask if not carrying Balaclava

Food:

There are no shops en-route and at the top so prefer carrying your food or ask your guide to arrange

Guide Requirement:

It's a straight uphill trek. You may choose to go on your own. In my case I hired a guide to arrange camp, sleeping bags and food.

Guide Contact Details:

Manu - 09817615207

Vishwas (Trek Bulls) - 8744002299

Switzerland of Garhwal - Chopta

A jerk disturbed me in my deep slumber. I was dozy but was suddenly aroused as cold breezes caressed my cheeks. Woah! I was in the majesty of lush green Garhwal. The silent forest was singing a carol. I looked around and flora fauna followed as far as I could see with hardly any sign of civilization. The whole aura was so fascinating that it acted like a drug to me. Spellbound by the grandeur of Himalayas, I started falling in love once again. This is what nature does to me, an orchestra played by silent forest, chirping birds, flowing rivers takes me into another world. I completely forgot the tiring long journey to this pristine village. For a moment, I thought I was in a dream.

A quick recap through my 17 hour long journey –  

Started from Gurgaon at 6 PM, was struck in traffic in capital for 3 hours. Passed through towns of UP and UK, made my way towards holy land of Gods and entered Haridwar. Washed my sins at Ganga shore at 1 AM and moved towards Rishikesh. Reached a barrier in Rishikesh at 2 AM where policemen did not allow us to cross before 5 AM. Slept till 5 in taxi and then moved ahead. Passed through virgin villages and towns of Garhwal such as Srinagar, Rudraprayag, Ukhimath, finally reached Hotel Snow View at Pothibasa (close to Chopta) at 11 AM.

View from Balcony of my room

I grabbed a cup of tea and sat in the balcony to witness the show. The day was sunny and bright with clear blue skies, snowy white clouds hovering above luscious gigantic mountains and diverse ridges peeping through one another. The complete ambiance of the place was quite captivating and refreshing. People were also simple, helping and friendly. They live a simple life with bare essentials in this off the beaten place with no connectivity and electricity. They eat locally grown veggies and drink natural spring water. In short, they live an unadulterated life as close to nature as possible. The fancy city life does not even exist for them. 

 

Deoria Tal

Deoria Tal

Deoria/Devaria Tal is a lake located 3 km uphill trek from village Mastura which passes through a defined trail with few benches to ease on the way. The lake appeared as a surprise to us because the entrance of the lake was covered with shrubs of tremendous trees. When we pass through them, we come across this divine lake. It’s a wonderful camping place blessed with a water source nearby. Authorities have taken good care of this place. It is said that Naagraj impersonated as a human and came to this place with his devotee. He revealed himself to his devotee here and formed this lake. So it is named Dev-riya. Also said that it was the place where Pandavas were queried by Yaksha.

 

Chandrashila Trek

It’s a 5 km trek from Chopta revealing stunning panoramas on the way. As we climbed up, distant Himalayas were more clearly visible. The entire ranges were so gracefully studded and were so giant sized that clouds looked as if they were sitting on them.

Random click on trek

We passed through a magnificent green meadow, 1 km from Chopta, famous as Bhuj valley. Fascinated by its grace, we decided to camp there on our way back at night. Well-constructed trails lead us to Tungnath with spectacular backdrops in passage.

Bhuj Valley (our camping place)

After 2.5 km, we stopped at Ravanshila, it is said that Ravan worshiped Lord Shiva here and was later granted his wishes. Another stop was Tungnath Temple, a very famous Lord Shiva temple and is one of Kedars. As per Hindu mythology, the heart of Lord Shiva resides in this temple and this is where Lord Shiva revealed his heart to Pandavas.

Tungnath Temple

1 km uphill trek from Tungnath leads to Chandrashila which gives 360 degree view of the entire Himalayan ranges around. There were no trails defined and we had to walk to rocky and steep Mountain to get to Chandrashila. This was the end point of the trek. Every stone in this world has a story so this one says Lord Rama worshiped Lord Shiva here.

Panaroma shot from Chandrashila

From the door step availability of every minute thing in city to a remote village where one have to walk miles for the simplest of things really added an unforgettable experience to my travel kitty.

 

Minutiae: There are 2 places with the same name (Chopta), both diverge from Rudraprayag. One goes towards Ukhimath (the right one) but if you search from Rishikesh to Chopta on google map, it somehow always shows the second one. Also the road from Rishikesh to Ukhimath remains closed from 8 PM to 5 AM.

 

Would you like to visit Chopta?

What's the thing you liked most about Chopta?

 

Julay from LADAKH

Ladakh is a dream destination for every traveler so does mine. This dream got oomph every time one of my friend visited Ladakh almost every year for 5 years in a row. And every time he visited, he posted pictures on Facebook. I don’t know if he is aware of it or not, but I was very jealous of him because he got so many chances to be at my dream destination. And then one fine day I decided to materialize my dream and planned to experience Ladakh. It is not a place where you visit but it’s an experience which you live by being there. Only the ones who have been there can understand my feelings.

From the roads of Ladakh

After long hours of planning and discussions with my friends, we finally decided to fly to Ladakh from Delhi and return via Manali by road. So the big day arrived and we boarded our flight to Leh. It just took an hour to reach the paradise. Our excitement levels were rising and I was glued to the window when we were about to land to make use of my every single moment. The views from sky above were showcasing love of golden mountains with clear blue skies.

A Random click

While going towards Hotel, I was completely in awe of what I was seeing ahead of me. Those sights can best be described as the magic of God. I actually took a deep breath and gave myself a couple of seconds so that my brain could actually register what I had in front of me. A civilization over 1000 years old in the most hostile environment in the world is nothing short than God's magic.

White Lotus School (where 3 idiots (movie) was filmed)

Started with visiting White Lotus School where last scene of 3 Idiots (movie) was shot. This school is being run by Dalai Lama where little lamas live, pray and learn. A lady took us for a walk inside the school, no one was allowed to talk to or click pictures of kids. A café with name "Rancho Coffee Shop" have been opened in the premises after grand success of ‘3 Idiots’.

Buddha's Gods Idols at Hemis (left) and Thiskey (right) Monastery

Ladakh is house of monks and is crisscrossed with ancient Buddhist monasteries. Meditation can be best practiced in there. Hemis and Thiskey are among the very popular ones with huge idols of Buddha’s gods. At Hemis, Monks were busy in preparations for Dalai Lama’s visit. Thiskey mesmerized us by offering such spectacular views which made us stand still and set a gaze at them.

Sunset at Shey Palace

A beautiful sunset marks a day well spent and the sceneries from Shey palace ensured we had one. I sat there silently to watch the show nature was playing. As sun went down, light golden mountains turned sun kissed orange and when sun hid behind them, turned back to golden. I had never witnessed such a sight where I had forgotten to blink my eyes while I was totally fantasized by the magic of God.

Indus River

While sitting by the shore at Indus River and listening to the mild waves, I was surprised to lose track of time. There are times in life when you are so lost in observing tiny details which hold no meaning. Like I was lost in thoughts, how beautifully this river was making its way and flowing with well-defined waves. The complete aura of the place was just hypnotizing.The topography throughout the journey shoots up so abruptly that they throw off all calculations of distance - what looked to be a ten-minute crossing easily required an hour or more. At times, it appeared as if so many of nature's forces were warning us away at the steep slopes and uneasy bends and not to forget the great chunks of ice appearing static and frozen in time.

Khardung-La Pass

After driving for few hours from Leh City, we reached The Highest Motorable Road in The World – Khardung-la Top. Yes it is the highest one at a height of 18380 ft., colder than rest of Ladakh. We felt even more altitude sick and started gasping for air. And then The Mighty Military Men served us life saver ‘Kahwa’ at the café run by them. 

Diskit Monastery

While passing by Shayok River and making our way towards Diskit Monastery, I didn’t realize the piece of land which appeared from a distance was actually a rapidly flowing grey river. Moved on to Diskit where huge Idol of God stunned us by its elegance. Surrounded by gigantic grey mountains, this captivating monastery at a far flung place is worth seeing.

Nubra Valley

Devoid of flora and fauna, Ladakh keeps the tempo up by surprising you at every bit you travel. So the next surprises for us were sand dunes of Nubra, double humped camels and apple gardens. Landscapes of Nubra valley are like oasis where you behold low lying sand dunes amid infinite towering mountains and Indus flowing along one side. I was really amazed to see the apple gardens inside hotels. This cold desert is a place that just sucks you in by its beauty and the warmth to its people.

Panamic Spring

The tired travelers who get aches while hitch hiking or the ones who struggle with their back and joints pains, Panamic Hot Spring can be a great help. It is said that a bath in this spring takes all your joint pains and skin problems away. I personally did not try it so cannot give a feedback.

Chang La Pass

The next day was the most awaited one and had to unveil the biggest surprise of Ladakh – The Pangong Lake. I consider this as the most beautiful gift of God to our country. Even the thought of being at Pangong on next day was making us impatient. With rushing excitement, we started early in the day and took short halts. After driving for few hours, we stopped at Chang-La – The Third Highest Road in The World on the way and had Kahwa. 

Marmot

Having tasted Kahwa at Khardung-la, we all were big fan of it by now. So did not miss a single chance to have this healing nectar. We drove further and spotted a little cute animal MARMOT on the way. We stopped to feed him some munchies. The innocent animal was so gracefully jumping, running, grabbing and hiding himself in his little abode.

First view of Pangong

With high expectations and enthusiasm, we drove further towards the biggest attraction and motivation of this trip. With every turn our vehicle took, our driver announced we are almost there. We impatiently looked around and fell back to seat with disappointment. After many such announcements, we finally saw a board which returned our lost smiles ‘The First View of Pangong’. We could see a far-off blue strip amid mammoth humps of Golden brown sand with streaks of dark brown. 

Pristine Pangong Lake

Our excitement rose as we headed closer to lake. It felt like the New Year eve when every one of us was counting minutes for clock to hit 12. And then wait was over and we stood at pristine Pangong. With widened eyes and opened mouth (completely unaware, in a shock or surprise), I stood awestruck in disbelief, soaking in every single moment. It was the time when started my love affair with Pangong. The complete aura was so intriguing and awe-inspiring that I sat there for long without a blink of eye. With the very movement of clouds and sun, lake presented different sights in different shades. Mountains decorated as jewels around the lake create a charismatic scenery in a way which leaves audience in confusion if what they just saw was real. But then you pinch yourself and realize oh!! It’s real and it’s actually happening. Its sheer beauty and starkness made me wonder if I was on planet earth. Speechless as I was, short of words I would fall, whenever I would have to explain my feelings for Pangong.

Shanti Stupa

Shanti Stupa, a meditation paradise, is at a hilltop in Leh city with breath-taking views of Ladakh. The hoardings around the Stupa with labels signal towards the directions of major attractions in Ladakh. You can get a high level idea from here of what lies where.

Village near Tso Moriri

Tso Moriri, a bit lesser known lake with wondrous views is located in a very remote area of Ladakh where you would hardly find any hotel or restaurant. But the best thing about Ladakh is military is there to help support and guide you even in the remotest area. So Safety is not at all an issue in Ladakh, be it for men or women. We stayed in nearby village where people survive with bare necessities in very sour weather conditions.

A click on Leh-Manali Highway

Next day, we unwillingly left Ladakh with a heavy heart and made our way towards Manali. Leh-Manali highway never lets you down in terms of the awesome sights, sheer adventure and of course the challenge that it presents to you. It is 480 kms of pure adrenaline and is a biker’s delight. While traveling on these roads, one can experience first-hand the change in mountains, people, and culture. You leave the arid lands of Ladakh where nothing grows and land in Manali hills full of trees. Stopping at tea stall at 13000 feet with stunning sights cannot be described in words. One sight after the other, one experience after the other, it is definitely an experience of a lifetime.

Have you been to Ladakh?

If yes, share your experience.